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  • Avoiding Exterior Wall Blushing On a Log Home with Lifeline Advance TopCoat

    Spring and fall are often when many log home owners seal and refinish their exterior walls. It's one of those chores that tends to get wrapped up in either spring cleaning, or prepping your log home for the upcoming harsh winter season. If you refinish your log home's exterior walls every few years — good for you. You're helping to extend the life, quality, and exterior beauty of your log home, and you'll have fewer problems with your home in the future. But, if you usually apply a top coat, and you've noticed it turning an odd shade of white from time to time, here's what you need to know.

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  • 5 things you didn't know about log homes

    In the US, log homes are fairly common. In most regions of the country, forests are plentiful, offering up an ideal renewable resource for building, and many Americans just love the rustic, natural feel a log home can provide. Log homes have a long history and while they're definitely a favorite homestyle today, there's a lot you might not know about them. Whether you have a log home, or you just really like them, you'll love these 5 awesome facts you may not have known about America's favorite home!

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  • A Step-by-Step Guide to Applying Lifeline Interior Finishes

    As most log homeowners know, log homes need a little extra TLC when it comes to finishes. Since wood is porous, it requires specially formulated finish that will cover and adhere to the material completely. What is good, however, is once you get your interior finishes up on the walls, there's very little maintenance to do after. Log homes are generally a low-maintenance style home, and after you've finished your interior finishes, there's little you'll have to worry about in the future. Most importantly, so long as you apply your interior finishes properly, you'll have beautiful interior wood walls to look at for years to come. They'll be easy to clean, low maintenance, and require little to no touch-ups in the future.

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    1. Inspect flashing in the valleys of the roof, around the chimney and enclosing plumbing vents to ensure a tight seal against water. Use roof tar to seal any edges that have lifted up.

    2. Visit your attic and inspect the under side of your roof system for water stains, as well as matted or mildewed insulation. If you have a cathedral ceiling, look for water stains on the drywall or on the tongue-and-groove paneling.

    3. If you have exposed timbers on the underside of your eaves that extend flush with the overhand or protrude past it, the ends of these logs are susceptible to rot. Treat with Shell-Guard then sand and seal with Log End Seal.

    4. Did you see ice buildup (ice dams) on your roof last winter? Prevent warm-air build-up in your attic during winter months by increasing the amount of insulation (less heat will enter your attic). Or improve ventilation so warm air escapes quickly.

    This content was provided by Perma-Chink Systems, Inc.

  • Log Rot: What Causes it and how to fix it

    Log rot

    In our previous post, we mentioned what could happen if water got into your home, and one of the possibilities we mentioned was log rot. In this post we’ll discuss the ins and outs of log rot, from what causes it to how to fix it.

    Log rot occurs when moisture gets into your home’s logs. This can happen for a number of reasons, like when logs are too close to the ground, if overhangs aren’t long enough to prevent moisture from coming into contact with logs, when cracks form in your logs, when your interior plumbing leaks, etc. When moisture gets into your logs, that then invites the decay fungi to invade and eat away at them. Once the decay fungi gets into your home’s wood, it needs plenty of oxygen, a moisture content of 20% or more, temperatures between 60° and 90°, and a food source, which, in this case, is your home to get going.

    Ultimately, the best thing to do when it comes to log rot is to prevent it with wood preservatives and effective design. Unfortunately, that’s not always possible. If log rot has invaded your home, there are a couple of things you can do, so long as the damage to your logs isn’t too extensive. If the damage to your logs goes further than surface rot, you should consider having those logs replaced. Apply a borate treatment to affected areas Products with borate, like Armor Guard, Shell Guard Concentrate, and Shell Guard RTU, help protect wood for many, many years by preventing wood-boring insects and decay. When you apply your borate treatment, be sure to apply it to bare wood by painting, brushing, or injecting it. After you apply your treatment, it may take logs several weeks to dry. Apply an epoxy treatment Once your logs have dried after your borate treatment, you can coat logs with an epoxy treatment to harden, restore, and waterproof wood. For log-restoration projects, we recommend Liquid Wood, which can be poured, painted, or injected into wood. If you need epoxy or borate treatments for your log restoration project, give us a call at (800) 564-2987, or check out our website to see what we have in stock.

  • Why Log Homes are environmentally friendly

    Southland In the past few years, protecting the environment by “going green” has become an important issue in society. With so many people educating themselves about how to protect the environment, it’s surprising that a lot of people still don’t know how environmentally friendly log homes are. In this post, we’ll give you four reasons log homes are actually safe for the environment.

    Less is wasted during the process When building a log home, it’s easier for builders to find a use for all parts of the log. Scraps and leftover pieces can be made into smaller household items like furniture or fences, while bark and sawdust can be used for gardening or farming. For craftier homeowners, smaller pieces can easily be used for DIY projects. For examples of DIY projects, check out our Pinterest.

    Log homes use fewer materials than traditional homes Unlike traditional homes that have multiple components, such as drywall and insulation, log homes have one source for building material: logs. Logs provide structural support, insulation, and visual interest, making traditional home materials like paint and siding completely unnecessary.

    Log homes are made of more recyclable materials Since logs are a natural, renewable resource, they can easily be recycled. So, if you have materials left over that you don’t feel like turning into a DIY project, you can recycle them instead of throwing them away like you would with a traditional home.

    Log homes are more energy efficient than traditional homes When it comes to heating and cooling, log homes are much more energy efficient than traditional homes because logs naturally insulate themselves. So, in summer the walls of a log home absorb less heat, keeping the home cool, while in the winter they absorb more heat and hold it in the logs to slowly dispense warm air over time.

    While log homes are already fairly eco-friendly, Timeless Wood Care carries products to help your log home or building project be extra green.To learn about the environmentally friendly products we carry, give us a call today (800) 564-2987.

  • 5 Common myths about log homes

    Michigan Home Exterior, horizontal, front elevation , Lutz residence, Leeland, Michigan, Maple Island Log Homes
    • Log homes are not energy efficient Log homes can be just as energy efficient as a traditional home, they just need to be sealed and protected with the right products. The two areas that should be a priority to seal properly are the gaps between the logs and the outside of the logs themselves. This will keep the elements out and your logs protected so that you can be sure you won’t waste any energy you use to heat and cool your log home.

    We recommend using Perma-Chink to seal the spaces between the logs in your log home. It comes in a variety of colors and is the perfect solution for keeping the elements out and the heat and air conditioning in.

    To seal and protect your logs we recommend using Perma-Chink’s Lifeline Advance.This clear coat offers protection from the elements and the UV rays of the sun.

    • Log homes require a lot of maintenance This is a common misconception. A log home does not require any more maintenance than any other type of wood sided or wood framed home. Unless preventative maintenance is neglected, a log home usually only requires cleaning, resealing of the logs, and re-chinking periodically.
    • Insects are more attracted to log homes When a log home is built, the logs are prepared ahead of time by debarking and drying them to the appropriate level for construction. Bugs are drawn to the bark and moisture in wood, and since neither of these are present in a properly prepared log home, it’s not a serious issue. You can take extra precautions by making sure your logs are properly sealed. This will keep any potential bug problem at bay.
    • Log homes do not last long Again, this all comes down to proper maintenance. Some of the oldest structures in the world are made of logs. Any home that is not properly taken care of will deteriorate over time. Protection from the elements and routine maintenance are key. You can take a look at our Yearly Maintenance and Inspections Blog to see what we recommend. By taking the proper maintenance steps, a log home can last forever.
    • Logs are not good insulators Logs actually act as better insulators than you would find in a traditional home. In fact, they are about 25-50% better depending on the size and type of the log. Logs act as great insulators because they naturally have tiny air pockets located inside of them that prevent heat from flowing in or out of the home, depending on the season.
  • Freeze/Thaw Stability

    Winter Home

    Without a doubt it is always best to prevent any of our finishes and sealants from freezing. They all contain water and the formation of ice crystals within the products can separate the water from the other components. In some products once this occurs it becomes impossible to regain the properties of the original formulation even after thawing and vigorous mixing. These type of products are not freeze/thaw stable.

    With a few exceptions most of our products are freeze/thaw stable but if a product becomes frozen it needs to be thawed slowly, preferably at room temperature. Speeding up the thawing process by heating the container can seriously damage the product making it unusable. If the product is in pails or containers, once it has completely thawed it will require a thorough mixing.

    Any finish or sealant that has been frozen will never completely regain all of the initial properties that it had before it was frozen but it may still be usable. However, if a product is subjected to multiple freeze/thaw cycles each cycle will contribute to the degradation process until it is no longer suitable for use. If a product does become frozen it is better to allow it to stay frozen than it is to bring it inside to thaw and then store it where it may freeze again. It's the succession of freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw sequences that really destroys the integrity of a product. Before applying any product that's been frozen be sure to test a small amount to see if it is still usable.

    To reiterate: It's best to protect all of our products from freezing. If it does get frozen, thaw it slowly at room temperature then thoroughly mix it. It's better to keep it frozen than to subject it to multiple freeze/thaw cycles. Before applying any product that's been frozen be sure to test a small amount to see if it is still usable.

    Perma-Chink System products that are NOT freeze/thaw stable: Chink Paint Log End Seal Oxcon

  • Why Picking the Perfect Sander is Important

    Sanding is an important process in any lumber project because it prepares the wood by opening it's natural pores to accept finishes and stains. It also removes any residue left over from planer blades when the wood was processed. Not just any sander or sandpaper will do though. You must first choose the correct grade of sandpaper and type of sander for the job you are working on or you might damage your wood project.

    Sanders use sandpaper which come in various different grits (degrees of abrasiveness). The lower the amount of abrasive particles per square inch, the higher the course of the grit. Course sandpaper has 40-60 grit and is used for removing previous finishes or quickly removing unwanted wood. Medium grit sandpaper has a grit of 80-120 is good for removing scratches and rough spots in the wood. Fine grit sandpaper has a grit of 150-180 and is used for finishing sanding and smaller fine projects. Sandpaper also comes in Very Fine (220-240), Extra Fine (280-320) and Super Fine (360 and up). These are all used to continue to remove very small scratches left by previous sanding. You would want to keep sanding your lumber project with finer grit sandpaper until you reach your desired appearance.

    After choosing the correct sandpaper for your project you want to choose the right sander appropriate for the job. If you have a small project that needs to be handled with care you might want to hand-sand the wood or use a small hand-sander such as a mouse sander. A rotary sander or palm sander would be used for larger, flat surfaces and a belt sander would be used for a large job such as hardwood floors. It is important to note that belt sanders are powerful and often cause more scratching so use it on big, tough surfaces. Taking the time to do a little research on what type of lumbar you are using, the different types and grits of sandpaper and choosing the proper sander will help you achieve a finished project you can be proud of in the end.

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